Headliner
Kokomo
“Pan-Caribbean with Indian and Asian flavors” is how Ria Graham describes the food at the new spot she owns with her husband, Kevol Graham, and her mother, Karen Valentine, who helps run the place. Both Grahams have experience in the hospitality business. The chef, Christian Aranibar, is from Lima, Peru, but became familiar with Caribbean food while working on Margarita Island off the coast of Venezuela. The menu offers spiced Rasta pasta, marinated shrimp with sautéed callaloo and grilled pineapple, lentil meatballs in coconut curry, braised oxtail and a calypso burger with grilled pineapple, Gruyère, guava and cilantro sauce, and jerk fries. Artwork and crafts from the Caribbean islands decorate the two-level space, which has outdoor seating for 76. Bamboo is the material of choice for the bar where for now tropical, but nonalcoholic, drinks are dispensed.
65 Kent Avenue (North 10th Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 347-799-1312, kokomonyc.com.
Opening
Silver Apricot
Long awaited but finally open, the latest spot from Simone Tong and Emmeline Zhao (Little Tong) puts a contemporary spin on cooking that takes a subtle approach with Chinese flavors. Dishes like charred radishes with honey soy and smoked egg yolk, cucumber melon salad with ramp vinaigrette, skirt steak with pickled wild spring onions and sesame relish, and poached Arctic char with crisp fish cracklings are highlights of a fairly brief menu for outdoor dining and takeout.
20 Cornelia Street (Bleecker Street), 929-367-8664, silverapricot.nyc.
Cleo
The last restaurant-kitchen sighting of the chef Rocco DiSpirito was about a year ago at the Standard Grill in the meatpacking district, where he lasted less than a year. Now, he’s cooking at a summer pop-up at Cleo and Mondrian Terrace, both in the Mondrian Park Avenue hotel in NoMad. The food is Mediterranean, rooted mostly in Italy, with dishes like spaghetti with pistachio pesto, soft shell crab fritto misto, a burger with provolone served like a hero, and charcoal-grilled pizza bianca. For now, dining is outdoors, and takeout and delivery are available. The chef, who has been selling his own gluten-free nut and seed bread, became involved in this project because he wanted to work with Stephen Brandman, a friend who runs the hotel. They say that some of the proceeds, an amount yet to be determined, are being donated to City Harvest.
Mondrian Park Avenue, 444 Park Avenue South (30th Street), 646-948-2370, mondrianparkave.com.
Caravan Uighur Cuisine
The pillars of this sturdy Silk Road cuisine, lagman noodles and skewered meats (over charcoal), are well represented here. Meat pies, samsa pastries and dumplings, often fiercely spiced, are also served.
200 Water Street (Fulton Street, entrance on Pearl Street), 917-261-7445, no web.
Black Tap Singles & Doubles
A pop-up for this chain known for over-the-top milkshakes and burgers that come in single and double sizes will be open into September. Everything is available to stay or to go.
529 Broome Street (Avenue of the Americas), 917-639-3089, blacktap.com.
Wicked Jane
Delayed since April, this addition to the West Eighth Street dining scene has a fresh, contemporary American menu. The owner, Zod Arifai, is also the chef. He used to own several restaurants in New Jersey.
15 West Eighth Street, 646-329-5767, wickedjane.com.
Cutlets Sandwich Co.
Richard Zaro, whose great-grandfather Joseph Zaro founded the New York bakery chain, is on his own, opening a sandwich delivery company where the specialty is breaded chicken cutlets. Sandwiches are layered on a sesame hero or roll from Parisi Bakery in Little Italy. He gets his ingredients mostly from farms in the region.
212-518-6091, cutlets.co.
Bar Jones
This is the third presence for the Uchu Hospitality group at Gotham West Market, after Don Wagyu and Sushi on Jones. It offers a good deal of outdoor seating for Japanese bar food.
Gotham West Market, 600 11th Avenue (44th Street), 212-582-7940, uchuhospitality.com.
Outerspace
99 Scott, an indoor-outdoor event space, has just added a restaurant to the complex. It’s in a spacious, thickly planted garden area in the back and includes socially distant booths that seat up to six people. Conner Updegrave, who cooked at Blanca, and Luis Herrera, from Cosme, provide a produce-driven seasonal menu with some Latin touches, like melon with chiles and lime, corn with charred scallions, cashews and chiles, and rotisserie chicken or maitake mushrooms with mole verde. There is music and a movie program.
99 Scott, 99 Scott Avenue (Randolph Street), Bushwick, Brooklyn, 99outerspace.com.
Main Street Tavern
Highway Restaurant & Bar in East Hampton has taken over the former Indian Wells Tavern and reopened it with this new name. It makes its debut with garden seating, as well as a menu and service designed for minimal contact. Indoors, there is a large bar and a dining room, both done tavern-style with dark wood and tufted green leather. The executive chef, Anand Sastry, ran the kitchen at Highway Restaurant for the past six years. Here, he’s taking a traditional route with a burger, lobster roll and grain bowls.
177 Main Street, Amagansett, N.Y., mainstreettavern.com.
Looking Ahead
Shou Sugi Ban House
This Hamptons wellness retreat, where the chef Mads Refslund, who was a founder of Noma, is the consultant, will lead two culinary weekends with foraging excursions, food workshops, social distancing, and plant-rich meals. The first, from Sept. 17 to 20, will be $3,925 for one person, $6,185 for two. The second, from Oct. 9 to 12, will be $4,750 for one person, $7,010 for two.
337 Montauk Highway, Water Mill, N.Y., 877-713-8025, shousugibanhouse.com.
Chefs on the Move
Giancarlo Junyent
Mr. Junyent, a native of Brazil who worked at Temple Court in Lower Manhattan, is the new chef at Berimbau Brazilian Kitchen in the West Village, which, after more than 10 years in business, has undergone extensive renovations, including the installation of a cocktail window open to the street.
Scott Koshnoodi
This co-owner of Parklife, a spacious indoor-outdoor bar in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn, has taken over the kitchen. Denisse Lina Chavez, who was running her restaurant, El Atoradero, from there, has moved on and plans to reopen in a Manhattan food hall. Mr. Koshnoodi, a trained chef, is fusing Texan fare with Persian specialties, like barbacoa tacos with Persian yogurt. (His heritage is Persian, and he is from Texas.)
July 29, 2020 at 02:14AM
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Kokomo, With a Caribbean-Influenced Menu, Opens - The New York Times
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